A long time ago, a friend of mine told me always to ask a salesperson what I would get if I spent 10 percent to 15 percent more on an item I wanted to purchase. At the time, the discussion was related to a large tube-style television. Let’s say the TV I was looking at sold for $800. If stepping up to a $900 model resulted in a better picture, or the addition of a feature that I would enjoy, then it would be worth the investment. In the mobile electronics industry, or perhaps consumer electronics in general, few customers ask, “What do I get for a little bit more?” This article will be the first of many that discuss the true performance features of mobile electronics products. For this article, we’ll look at better source units. What do you get when you spend more and how you benefit from those feature or performance upgrades?

Source Units – Displays

It should be no surprise that the majority of source unit discussions center on multimedia receivers. These marvels of modern technology include full-blown computers with a CPU, operating system, storage and peripherals. Car audio manufacturers bundle all the good stuff into a nice, compact package that is relatively easy to install.

When it comes to multimedia displays, the biggest difference you will see is screen size. Smaller screens are usually about 6.2 inches in size (measured diagonally). A benefit of this moderate screen size is the ability to include large buttons or a rotary volume control to the left of the screen. The second option for screen sizes is around 7 inches. While this is an increase of only about 12 percent of the screen area, larger screens are easier to read quickly.

Another consideration when it comes to multimedia displays is the type of touchscreen interface. Entry- to mid-level units use a resistive touch screen. Resistive screens use a thin, flexible membrane that bends ever so slightly when you press on them. Data about the point where the front membrane comes into contact with the rear membrane is relayed to the computer, and an appropriate response is generated.

Capacitive touchscreens detect minute changes in voltage caused by the presence of a conductive object near the screen. Your finger has enough conductivity to effect a change in voltage where you touch the screen. Capacitive screens are clearer than resistive because there are fewer material layers and no need for a flexible membrane. The drawback of capacitive screens is that you can’t use them while wearing gloves. All modern smartphones use capacitive screens.

Another option is display and button customization. As you move up through the model range, you can often choose different background and button colors.

Smartphone Integration Solutions

When you are shopping for a new receiver, you may want to consider asking about Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. These smartphone solutions use voice recognition technologies to make performing common tasks easier and safer. You can send a text message, choose the music you want to listen to or get navigation directions, all by simply talking to your radio. These technologies have associated hardware requirements put forth by Apple and Google, and include technology licensing costs. As such, they cost extra to purchase, but they are well worth the investment.

Audio and Tuning Features

If you are passionate about your music, look for a source unit that includes crossovers. The ability to filter the signals created by the source unit will let you add a subwoofer to improve the performance of your audio system dramatically. Having simple bass, midrange and treble controls may be adequate to let you adjust your sound system. More elaborate signal processing solutions include multi-band equalization that is source dependent. In many cases, advanced signal processing features include some level of configurable or adjustable signal delay to improve the soundstage in the vehicle. Before you buy a source unit, listen to the difference that a little tuning can make. You may find that advanced processing is something you want.

Source Unit Connectivity

Hooking things up to your radio is part of the fun of upgrading your vehicle. The most basic of source units may include Bluetooth, a USB port, an auxiliary input, a backup camera connection and preamp outputs for external amplifiers. As you move up through a brand’s models, you’ll discover functions like SiriusXM compatibility, multiple USB connections, support for more than one phone, multiple camera inputs, multiple video inputs, HDMI input, multi-zone outputs and more. Do your homework before you go shopping. Decide what functions you want before you leave the house. Your retailer can start with that to help you choose a solution.

Internal Features

There are a lot of features that don’t get discussed too often but can dramatically change the user experience with a new source unit. On the radio side of things, HD Radio offers excellent sound quality and added information display. Even a feature as simple as RDS display, which lets you know what song you are listening to, is nice to have. A high-power amplifier will make your music sound better. Some radios offer only 14 or 15 watts of power while others can produce as much as 55 watts. The difference is clearly audible.

Another important consideration is digital media compatibility. Most systems will play MP3 and WMA audio files. As you step up in features, you gain support for AAC, WAV and FLAC files. Upgrading even further gets you support for high-resolution audio formats that offer audio content beyond 20kHz. The second consideration for digital media compatibility is video. Determining whether a source unit will play video files is the first step. Second is the type of files. MPEG and WMV file playback is found on mid-level systems. Premium solutions add H.264 formats and often support MKV containers.

Vehicle Integration

Almost every multimedia receiver includes a steering wheel control interface connection. This connection allows your installer to configure an external interface that will allow the audio adjustment buttons on your steering wheel to work with your new radio. If you are looking for advanced integration, the iDatalink Maestro RR interface allows bidirectional communication with the CAN bus in your vehicle and many applications, as well as compatibility with factory backup cameras, UBS ports and infotainment solutions like Uconnect and Ford Sync. Depending on the vehicle and trim level, climate settings can also be controlled through the Maestro RR.

How to Choose Better Source Units

As we mentioned, do your homework before you walk out of the house to visit your local mobile enhancement retailer. If you have kids and would like them to be able to watch movies while you drive, then you’ll want a source unit with dual-zone capabilities. Likewise, a backup camera, satellite radio, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto are all very popular and common options for a new radio purchase. Don’t be afraid to ask the salesperson who is working with you about buying a better source unit; you may find out you can’t live without one of those features.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Upgrading a factory audio system is not as easy as it used to be. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, connecting an amplifier and a new set of speakers to a factory source unit would yield impressive, if not amazing, results. As automobile manufacturers put more focus on the performance of factory-installed sound systems, digital signal processing (DSP) became more and more prevalent. Equalization and signal delay built into factory source units and amplifiers allow inexpensive speakers to sound acceptable. This tuning works well for such speakers, but not for a set of premium aftermarket speakers. In the past few years, it has become common practice for reputable mobile electronics retailers to perform a series of oem sound system measurements in a vehicle we haven’t worked on before to ensure we understand how the factory entertainment system functions. The results of the measurements will determine the best path to upgrading the performance of the audio system.

Measure Twice, Cut Once

What do we measure, you ask? We need to quantify three items before a system upgrade can be discussed.

The first is frequency response. We need to know if the signal coming from the factory radio or amplifier has been equalized or filtered in any way. Equalization can help improve the performance of inexpensive speakers and compensate for the acoustic characteristics of your vehicle.

The second is voltage. If you have a high-power factory amplifier, then the interface we choose for your system has to be able to handle all of the voltage the amp can produce. Not knowing how much voltage is present in the speaker wires can lead to a system design that distorts at high volumes. This distortion will damage speakers.

The last thing our shop will want to analyze is the type of signal present. In most cases, the output of the amplifier is a BTL (Bridge-Tied Load), though some are single-ended. There is no right or wrong type of signal, but the information is required to ensure that they will use the appropriate interface solution or amplifier.

Depending on the vehicle and complexity of the factory sound system, we may have to complete several other tests. Signal routing tests are critical, especially if there is a center channel in the vehicle. Chimes, navigation prompts, parking sensors, up-mixers, active noise cancellation and systems that inject “engine noises” into the audio path have to be taken into account before the system design is complete.

What if We Do Not Measure Your System?

Imagine that you want to improve the sound in your audio system. You go to a car stereo shop and buy an amp and a set of speakers, determined to install them yourself to save some money. Even worse, you want to try to save a few more bucks, so you buy the equipment online and have it shipped to your house. Saturday rolls around, and you tear into your vehicle. You run wires to the battery and try to connect to the factory amp. After an hour or two in forums or Facebook groups, you think you have finally connected to the right wires. When you turn the system on, it sounds dull and lifeless.

What happened?

Many factory amplifiers have dedicated outputs for tweeters and midrange drivers. Connecting to one or the other limits how much information goes to your new speakers. Working with an experienced mobile electronics retailer helps you eliminate situations like these. A retailer that doesn’t already have the information can measure the response of each channel of the factory source unit or amplifier and provide a way to manage work with that information.

A more-typical result is that the high-frequency output from the new speakers is overwhelming. Many factory audio systems use a woofer in the door and a small midrange in the dash. These tweeterless factory systems require a moderate amount of high-frequency emphasis to sound acceptable. When you add a tweeter that can do a good job of reproducing these frequencies, the boost inherent to the system becomes overwhelming. You may be able to turn down the treble control on the radio, but it’s likely that the adjustment only compensates for the highest of frequencies, leaving you with an annoying frequency response bump around 4 or 5 kHz.

What We Do with the OEM Sound System Measurements

After the measurements are complete, our shop can recommend a solution to help ensure the success of your new system. If you luck out and have a simple factory source unit, you may only need a voltage adapter, commonly called a line output converter, to send an appropriate signal to your amplifier.

If a large amount of equalization is present from the factory amplifier, then an equalizer or digital signal processor may be adequate to compensate for the factory tuning. A calibrated microphone and audio analysis equipment is required to set up the new system. These devices are expensive, and it takes time to learn how to use them correctly to achieve acceptable results.

If you have a factory amplifier that includes crossovers or time alignment, then your interface options narrow. Several system integration processors on the market can automatically undo equalization and time alignment, then recombine signals from the subwoofer, midbass, midrange and tweeter outputs. There are also integration modules that will replace your factory amplifier and provide connections that will feed a signal directly to your new amplifier. Unfortunately for the Do-It-Yourselfer, these amplifier replacement modules need to be programmed for the year, make, model and trim level of your vehicle. This configuration process is not something that you can do at home.

Inquiring Minds Want to Know

Performing OEM system measurements are like preparing to have a cavity filled. Before your dentist starts grinding or drilling, he or she will take a series of X-rays so that they know exactly what they are dealing with. The same philosophy applies to constructing a subwoofer enclosure. You’d never see someone start cutting wood without having measured the car accurately.

When it is time to upgrade your factory audio system, visit your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. Ask if they know how your factory audio system is configured in terms of signal processing. If they don’t know, find out whether they have the equipment to measure the factory audio signals in your vehicle. Once you are comfortable with their level of expertise, you can enjoy the process of designing a fantastic sound system for your vehicle. You will be thrilled with the results!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

When you go shopping for a computer, it’s important that all the pieces work together to provide maximum performance and reliability. When you head out to upgrade your car audio system, your salesperson should ask you a series of questions that will help them identify the perfect solution for your needs and application. When it comes to car audio system design, there are many variables. In this article, we will look at a few upgrade considerations talk about some options to enhance the performance of your system.

Heads Up!?

For decades, car audio system upgrades have followed the recipe of a new radio, front and rear speakers, an amplifier and a subwoofer. Lately, it’s becoming difficult or impossible to remove the factory radio from many vehicles. In these situations, your mobile enhancement retailer should be able to provide you with options to make use of the signal from the factory source unit or amplifier, then upgrade the performance of the system with new speakers, a subwoofer and an amplifier.

Adding a subwoofer to your system is always a great idea. A subwoofer should be the first thing you upgrade in any vehicle. Once you have a speaker dedicated to reproducing low-frequency information, the smaller speakers in the car or truck can focus on mid-bass, midrange and high-frequency duties.

Regarding the overall listening experience, having a new amplifier and new front and rear speakers should let your system play a lot louder with less distortion. Having rear speakers playing as loudly as the front speakers will wrap the sound around you as though you are listening to a set of headphones. A system like this is unlikely to offer any improvement in staging or imaging unless you invest in a digital signal processor of some sort. Listening to a system with great staging is like sitting in the audience at a concert or in front of a set of home stereo speakers.

The Front Stage Upgrade

If you are interested in recreating your music with a sense of realism regarding placement, your system design will need to change. Instead of upgrading the rear speakers, a better option might be to invest your speaker budget in a set of good component speakers for the front of your vehicle. You can choose an amplifier with a built-in DSP that allows your installer to tune the system. If you pick a five- or six-channel amplifier, your installer can wire the tweeters and midrange drivers to dedicated channels, then connect the subwoofer to the rear or subwoofer channels.

Once configured properly, a system like this reproduces your music from an imaginary stage that spans the width of your dashboard. If the tune is really on-point, you should be able to pick out individual instruments and identify their locations on this soundstage. With careful tuning, the sound from the subwoofer will seem to come from the dash, rather than the rear of your vehicle. Finally, high-quality speakers can handle more power and produce less distortion than moderately priced OEM-replacement options.

The Front Stage Mistake

To maximize the features and capabilities of a DSP, each speaker should have its own amplifier channel. If you use a two-channel amp and a set of components with passive crossovers, your installer won’t have full control over the tweeter level relative to the midrange. He can’t change the crossover slopes between the mid and tweeter or adjust the signal delay to each driver.

The Balance of Power

Picking the right size amplifier for your system is important. If you listen at high volumes, then power is very important. That said, you’ll need to choose speakers that can handle those high power levels in order for the system to be reliable. Even though a manufacturer prints a huge number like 250 or 350 watts on the box, it’s unlikely the speakers can handle that amount of power for any significant amount of time. Always look for the continuous power handling numbers, no peak or maximum ratings.

If you like a lot of bass, then you have some choices to make about subwoofers. Do you pick a single sub that can handle, say 1,000 watts of power? What about two subwoofers that can handle 500 watts? The proper choice depends on your budget, but also on the capabilities of the subwoofers themselves. Can the 1,000-watt subwoofer move as much air as the pair of 500-watt subwoofers? The answer will depend on some computer modeling and requires some consideration as to how much space you can afford to provide for the subwoofers. Two subs are going to require a much larger enclosure.

The Recipe Book for System Design

Shopping for an audio system upgrade is like cooking: You need to determine what you want long before you head to the grocery store. Do you want loud? Do you want incredible accuracy? Do you want something that does not affect the cargo capacity of your vehicle? What is your budget for the project? Do you want to do everything at once? Only once you have a plan in place can you get an accurate quote to upgrade your vehicle. You may learn or experience something new as you do your research. It’s certainly OK to change your plan.

Drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer today and ask some questions. Let them know what you like about your existing car audio system, and what you would like to improve. If they have a demo vehicle, ask for a demonstration. Hearing someone else’s vehicle can be an eye-opening experience. Listen to their advice about system design and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Take your time with the system design plan and you’ll end up with great results.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

If you talk to someone who is truly passionate about the accuracy of their sound system, then terms like tonal balance, soundstage and stereo imaging are bound to be part of the discussion. Each of these terms describes a different aspect of how your audio system reproduces music. For the listening experience to be truly magical, each element needs to be realistic. Let’s look at stereo imaging in detail.

What You Hear at a Live Performance

Listening to a band in a small club is very different from a performance in a stadium or outdoor setting. When the performance requires a great deal of amplification, it’s up to the person behind the mixing console to determine where the sounds from each performer come from. In most cases, there are two large banks of speakers, one on each side of the stage. If the sound technician decides that the sound from the guitarist on the left side of the stage should come primarily from the left speakers, and the sound from the bassist on the opposite side of the stage should come from the right speakers, there will be some sense of realism to the performance. If everything is mixed in mono so that the music is as loud as possible, well, it might sound great, but you won’t be able to discern where each performer is on the stage from the sound alone.

At a small live performance, especially one with minimal amplification, the instruments themselves are responsible for what you hear. A choir or an orchestra are great examples of unamplified performances. Don’t let the stereotype of “fancy music” fool you; every genre of music, save for maybe dance and EDM, has opportunities for live, acoustic performances. How does the listening experience differ?

In an acoustic performance, the sound you hear from each instrument originates at the instrument. The sound could be that of a guitar, an upright bass or a set of drums. Drums are a great example. In most configurations, the high-hat and snare drum are to the left of the drummer, the ride cymbal and the floor tom are on the right. The small and medium toms and the bass drum are usually centralized. If you are listening to a drummer, you can see and hear each cymbal and drum as he or she plays it.

The introduction to Dire Straits’ “Money for Nothing” is a great example of a drum kit recorded in stereo. Maybe the size of the kit is a little large relative to the rest of the performance, but you can certainly get a sense of where each drum or cymbal is on the soundstage relative to one another. Being able to pick out the placement of each instrument in the listening environment is known as stereo imaging.

Locations for Excellent Stereo Imaging

Put on a set of headphones and listen to your favorite recordings. Whether it’s a live performance or computer-created effects in the latest pop music, using different amounts of information in the left and right channels has the effect of placing sounds in different locations from left to right. Many audiophiles strive to perfect the accuracy with which their sound systems reproduce and focus sounds on the soundstage. A sound system with great imaging will be able to isolate instruments and performers very accurately. When a system has excellent imaging, each sound is often described to have a sense of space around it. This space separates one sound from another.

Stereo Imaging in Your Vehicle

When it comes to creating excellent stereo imaging in a car, several significant challenges need addressing. First and foremost, without some amount of signal processing, the driver is going to hear the speakers on the left side of the vehicle before the speakers on the right, simply due to his or her proximity to them. For the same reason, those speakers will seem to be louder. These issues wreak havoc with our ability to create a realistic soundstage and accurate imaging. So, what solutions are available?

Using a Digital Signal Processor (DSP), your installer can apply a delay to the speakers closest to the listener so that the sound of each speaker in the vehicle arrives at the listening position simultaneously. Likewise, the installer or tuner can reduce the output level of these speakers so that all the speakers have the same relative volume level at the listening position. Now, sounds that are equal in both channels will come from a location between the speakers, and everything will be distributed nicely across the soundstage.

How Can Imaging Be Improved?

If you are looking for incredible realism and accuracy, the next step is to apply equalization to each channel of the system so that we hear the same amount of information from the left and right speakers. Once executed properly, sounds will become more focused on the soundstage and seem to be more stable. The result is impressive and awe-inspiring.

Are There Any Drawbacks to DSP Tuning?

The process described above is called a “one seat tune.” This configuration means that each speaker in the system is optimized for a single seat in the car or truck. If you sit in the passenger seat, the tonal balance will be mediocre and all the sound will seem to come from the far right speaker. Is there a solution? Well, at the time of writing, not really. But, there will be very soon. Several companies have signal processors coming to market very shortly that include an upmixer. These processors analyze the content in the stereo recording and then output a left, center and right signal that can place sounds accurately for both the driver and the passenger in the vehicle. Using an upmixer does require that the vehicle has a center channel, and the tuning process is much different to make these systems work. The result is that everyone in the car can enjoy a realistic listening experience from any seat, even in the back.

Experience Your Music with Amazing Detail

If you haven’t heard a car audio system with excellent imaging and staging, visit your local mobile enhancement retailer today and ask for a demo. Most shops have a demo vehicle or two that are set up to show you what they offer. Once you hear a car with amazing imaging, you’ll want your sound system to be the same. Ask the sales team what options are available for your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

It’s early 2018, and North America is still contending with a deep freeze and some nasty winter weather. Erie, Pennsylvania, got more than 50 inches of snow over the holidays, and several northeastern US cities set records for cold weather. Montreal, Canada, spent six consecutive days with the temperature below 1 degree F. Amid all this shivering, our cars and trucks have been suffering. We’ve seen people lined up at auto parts stores to buy new car batteries. What is it about the cold that gives a car battery such a hard time? Read on to find out some important facts about car battery maintenance.

Taxing the Electrical System

A while back, we took a very detailed look at how car batteries work, explaining the chemistry behind releasing electrons as energy. We won’t punish you with the high-school chem lab rigmarole again.

When your battery has a full charge, the outside temperature can typically reach well below -50F before the battery starts to freeze. Conversely, a depleted battery will start to freeze just below 30F. Once the battery freezes, you won’t be moving any electrons anywhere quickly.

For a normal lead-acid battery, in excellent condition with a full charge, the battery should be around 12.6 to 12.7 volts when measured without any load. When depleted by about 50 percent, the battery will read around 12.3 volts. 12.0V means you have about 25 percent charge left. Finally, anything less than 11.9 means the battery is dead. The range is not very wide and most people think that if the battery is at 12.0 volts, it’s fine.

The Downward Spiral of Energy Reserve

The problem with cold weather and battery performance isn’t typically caused by temperature alone. As temperatures drop, we find ourselves using seat heaters, rear window defrosters and heated steering wheels, and of course we have the heater blower cranked all the way up! These electrical loads tax your charging system and draw current away from your battery. If you drive a short distance to work, say less than 15 minutes, you will find the charge level of your battery drops slowly day after day.

Over the holidays, many people change their routine. One option is to stay at home, cuddled up by the fire or the cozy glow of your plasma TV. Another option is to head to the airport and hop on a plane to somewhere warm for a week. Sure, there are still lots of people who have to work over the holidays, and their routines don’t change much.

For those who let their vehicles sit for several days, circuits like keyless entry systems and the clock continue to function. Even if they only draw 10 to 15mA of current, they will slowly drain the reserve out of your battery.

When we start our vehicles in cold weather, the oil in the engine and transmission are much thicker. This dramatically increases the current required to turn the starter motor. If it took 200 Amps to start your car on a nice sunny summer day, it’s not even remotely unreasonable for that number to double when the temperature is below freezing.

But Wait, There’s More!

So, now we have a battery that isn’t being charged very quickly when we drive, combined with reduced current delivery capabilities and significantly higher power requirements to start the car. It’s no wonder that cars don’t start when it’s cold out.

Now, let’s say you’re a smart cookie, and you decide to let your car idle a few minutes before you drive off. In terms of protecting your engine, this is the best idea in the world! Getting some heat into your motor oil will help thin it out and let it do its job better. Fuel will atomize better as the temperature of your engine increases. The downside is that most alternators don’t produce their full charging voltage at idle. So, while you may be doing wonderful things for the engine, you may not be charging the battery very much.

Batteries by the Numbers

Aside from not being to charge our batteries as quickly, and the fact that we need more current, batteries themselves simply do not perform as well when the temperature starts to drop. Let’s look at two common battery specifications: Cranking Amps and Cold Cranking Amps. The Cranking Amps specification defines the amount of current a battery can supply for 30 seconds when it is at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) and maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The Cold Cranking Amp specification is similar but with a temperature of 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C). Sadly, the reality of this specification is that 7.2 volts isn’t enough to get much work done. The flip side? We often don’t need to crank the engine for 30 seconds. Therefore, it all works out.

Your battery can’t produce as much energy when it’s cold because the rate at which the chemical conversation takes place is slowed down, increasing electrolyte resistance.

Taking Care of Your Battery in the Cold

When the mercury is slated to drop, or you won’t be driving your vehicle for more than three or four days, put a charger on it.

Please pay attention to this part. Not all battery chargers are equal. Those manually controlled, dual-rate chargers in the metal case at Walmart are NOT what you want.

Look for a battery charger that says it’s computer-controlled, automatic or intelligent. You will want to see some indication that the charger has different charging modes. The charger needs to be intelligent enough to stop pumping current into the battery once it’s charged.

Some of the best chargers have as many as eight steps/modes in their charging process. These can include processes that will break down sulfates that have adhered to the lead plates and prevent stratification when the battery is unused for a long period. Do your research before you buy.

Regular Battery Maintenance

Wouldn’t it be nice if our vehicles had a battery level indicator like our cell phones have? Knowing whether we have 70 percent or 30 percent charge left would dramatically improve the way we care for our batteries. Try to make it a habit of keeping the battery topped up. If you have sat in a parking lot listening to the radio for 20 minutes or made several short trips without a good long one to recharge the battery, connect your charger overnight and fill it up. It’s also a good idea to use your battery charger whenever you get your oil changed as a precaution. A well-maintained battery will last much longer than one that spends its life half-depleted.

If your battery has removal caps that allow you to check the electrolyte level, be sure to check the battery frequently. If the level is low, add distilled water. Do not use tap water. The minerals in the water will reduce the capacity of your battery.

You will also want to check all the battery connections. Are the power and ground connections tight? Is there any corrosion? If anything seems out of sorts, seek the assistance of a professional to ensure energy can flow from your battery efficiently and reliably.

Battery Care for Mobile Electronics Enthusiasts

A lot of car audio lovers forget to maintain their battery. The guys who compete in SPL contests are fanatical about battery maintenance. They have come up with all sorts of tricks to get the most voltage possible out of even the simplest of electrical systems.

If you have added accessories to your automotive electrical system, then battery maintenance is especially important. The addition of a dash camera that includes an automatic parking mode can tax a battery. If the weather is going to be much below freezing, you should turn that feature off. If you have a remote starter with a two-way remote, those also add a little extra current draw to your battery. A telematics solution like DroneMobile, SmartStart or AutoConnect also draws current. Stack up a few of these options and your battery may only last a week if you don’t drive the vehicle. You can see why battery maintenance is so important.

If you have questions about taking care of your electrical system, drop into your local mobile enhancement retailer. They can suggest what charger offers the best performance and may even have one in stock. If you need a new battery, they might be able to help with that as well. Don’t let yourself get stranded – take care of your car battery and it will take care of you!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.