Awhile ago, a client asked us what you get when you buy a “better” headunit. The usual answer is that you get more features and improved functionality. Those of us with a drive for the ultimate in sound quality and realism from our mobile electronics systems choose products in hopes of them receiving improved sound quality. Beyond frequency response and noise, what else makes one radio sound better than another?

We invited two head unit specimens to the Best Car Audio test bench for a little head-to-head battle. The first subject is a modern multimedia station that is equipped with navigation, smartphone integration and the general Bluetooth goodness. The challenger is a veteran, but premium, CD receiver. It has never heard of MP3 files, doesn’t understand the concept of satellite radio and thinks Bluetooth is the result of eating blueberry pie. However, in its day, it was one of the best. We do not need to mention names here, but we will call this the bench battle of features versus performance.

The Equalizer – Premium Test Equipment

Measuring the frequency response of a car audio product is relatively easy if you can feed a known signal into the device. When it comes to measuring a signal source, that is responsible for generating the signal, so all we can do is measure the output. We have a high-end digital interface on our bench. It offers a flat frequency response from 5 Hz to 92 kHz with a tolerance of 1 dB. The signal to noise ratio is an amazing 116 dBA and distortion is specified at less than 0.00032%. These specifications exceed those of both source units we are going to test.

Frequency Response Measurement

Testing the frequency response of a source unit requires some trickery. We have developed a reliable method that has proven itself time after time. The image below shows the frequency response of the reference signal. It has a slight incline in the high-frequency region, but everything is within a tolerance of about 1 dB. We converted this 192 kHz, 24-bit test track down to the CD standard of 44.1 kHz and 16 bit. Response to 22.05 kHz remains ruler-flat.

Frequency Response Results

Before we get into the results, we want to explain how to use the measurement graphs. The test track uses random noise as part of the test procedure. We process that after the test is complete. What you want to observe is the trend of the charts. A small peak or valley is not an anomaly in this scenario. Average the curve in your mind to see the overall trend.

The CD receiver: We played our test track from a standard CD audio file to make sure both source units were given the same information. The frequency response of the unit showed a typical response. The high-frequency filter kicks in around 17 kHz, which is normal for consumer products.

The DVD receiver: We played the same CD in the DVD receiver to see how it responded. The manufacturer of the DVD receiver has included a 2 dB boost on the top end that starts at 7 kHz and peaks at just over 2 dB at 15 kHz. The high-frequency filter response is similar to that of the CD player.

The high-frequency boost is not a big deal in terms of how a system sounds. Most of us have some high-frequency attenuation in our hearing, so this helps put some of the sizzle and air back into our music. It would be worth checking whether the source unit output clips when a 0 dB 15 kHz tone is played. This article is not a product review, so we will save that for someone else to tackle.

Bring the Noise

Our next challenge for the new versus old shootout is a little more technical: We wanted to see how each unit performed regarding background noise. This test is often reserved for lab environments, but can quantify the effort put into the component selection and system design.

For this test, we used a 1 kHz test tone recorded at -90 dB relative to full scale. Because the two source units have different pre-amp capabilities, we adjusted them so the output of the 1 kHz tone was equal in amplitude. This would best depict the noise imposed on the signal.

The CD receiver: We can see that the background noise relative to the signal is very quiet. There is a little bump at 60 Hz that was created by the power supply on our test bench. Otherwise, the test was impressive.

The DVD receiver: The background noise relative to the 1 kHz is 10 to 15 dB louder than that of the CD receiver at higher frequencies. There are also some spurious harmonic distortions in the output signal, mostly above 1 kHz. The large bump in noise in the low-frequency region could be caused by our 60 Hz 120 volt power supply causing some harmonics. The bandwidth is really wide, so it is hard to determine for sure.

A Distorted Perspective

We decided to repeat the test with a full-amplitude 1 kHz sine wave to see what harmonic content would be created at higher internal levels. The limits of the FFT analysis in our software starts to show up here. The flat horizontal line on the left of the chart and the angled line on the right are due to the analysis software and don’t represent noise.

The CD receiver: We noted two small harmonics at 14,750 and 165,000 Hz, with a slight harmonic at 12,000 Hz. Otherwise, the signal was very pure.

The DVD receiver: Harmonic distortion was clearly present at 1 kHz intervals starting at 2 kHz. It is worth noting that the first resonance is 45 dB quieter than the reference signal. If you were just playing the test tone, you might be able to hear it, but only just barely.

The Grand Finale – Intermodulation Distortion

Testing for intermodulation distortion is, well, mean. Out intermodulation distortion test is comprised of a CD test tone with 19 and 20 kHz sine waves played simultaneously. The spectral response of the test track can be seen below.

The CD receiver: When you are looking at an intermodulation comparison test, you are looking for frequency content that wasn’t in the original file. In the case of the CD receiver, we can see a very small bump at 1 kHz. This is significant because it is the difference between 19 kHz and 20 kHz. This would be considered an excellent result. A few other spikes show up at 3,500, 4,500 and 9,500 Hz, but they are still quite low – peaking at -93 dB relative to the test signal level of –15 dB.

The DVD receiver: We cannot really explain what happened here. There is 1 kHz content only 20 dB down from the 19k Hz and 20 kHz tones. Then harmonics upon harmonics of this up to 21 kHz. This test shows why some source units sound accurate and pure, while others do not.

Are Headunit Features Worth the Trade-off?

A few months ago, we published an article about harmonic distortion. That served to establish the basic understanding of how distortion creates content that wasn’t present in an original audio file. Our intent in this comparison is not to put down the modern DVD receiver, but to show what happens when manufacturers forego the bells and whistles and simply focus on all-out performance.

The same tests that apply to these source units are also common in amplifiers and speakers. We will subject an amplifier to the same mean and nasty tests in the coming months.

Don’t ever let price, perception or age dictate how you think a product sounds. Work with your mobile electronics specialist retailer to listen and compare for yourself. You will be amazed at what you hear.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

We all know that the performance of different makes and models of speakers and subwoofers has a dramatic difference in how they sound. When it comes to the installation of subwoofers, the choice of enclosure plays a huge role in the sound of the subwoofer system. In this article, we look at some of the benefits of custom vented enclosures and solutions available.

The Factors that Determine Performance.

Three criteria have the most effect on performance: air volume, tuning frequency (for bass reflex enclosures) and construction. Every subwoofer has its electro-mechanical characteristics. Subsequently, each subwoofer needs its very own enclosure design. With that said, some relatively standard designs offer good performance across a wide variety of speakers.

The difference between having an enclosure that “works” and one that sounds amazing is all in the design. Have your mobile electronics retailer confirm that the air volume and tuning frequency match your application before you purchase. (We will explain that happens when the air volume or tuning frequencies are “off” in another article.)

Wait, Why Vented Enclosures?

While there are benefits and drawbacks to each type of enclosure, a vented (bass reflex) enclosure will offer excellent efficiency and low-frequency extension for most people. These enclosure characteristics reduce the amount of power we need to send to the woofer, and therefore reduce the chances of overpowering and damaging the woofer.

Off-the-shelf Enclosures

Many car audio retailers offer subwoofer enclosures that have been mass-produced. These enclosures vary dramatically in construction quality and design. Some companies tune their enclosures relatively high to increase efficiency at higher frequencies while sacrificing low-frequency output and power handling. The materials used to build these enclosures also vary in quality.

Almost all of these off-the-shelf enclosures are made of MDF. That said, the density of the material varies a great deal. Some MDF is very soft in the middle, offering less resistance to panel deformation. Enclosures made of this soft-center MDF are also prone to having the mounting hardware strip when your installer goes to mount the subwoofer.

These days, efficient use of space is increasingly important for auto sound enthusiasts. An off-the-shelf enclosure may not maximize the available space in the storage area of your vehicle. Enclosure manufacturers try to balance the dimensions of the enclosure against the airspace requirements of the intended driver and the space available in the average vehicle.

Construction Methods

Many enclosure manufacturers claim to use a rabbet joint where two panels meet. Unlike a butt joint, a stepped rabbet joint will increase the surface area of the connection by about 50%. Enclosure assembly typically makes use of a generous amount of glue. Once glued, the panels are held together with brad nails to allow the glue to set up. The additional surface area provided by the rabbet connection results in a stronger joint and a reduced chance of air leaking.

Vent Considerations

If a vent (or port) is designed and constructed properly, a vented enclosure can produce less distortion than a sealed (acoustic suspension) enclosure. To reduce distortion and meet these goals, the vent must have adequate surface area and be designed in a way that the air entering and exiting the vent will couple well with the air in the listening environment. Several subwoofer manufacturers design and construct their enclosures. These stand out from the crowd as having excellent vent designs.

Enclosures with no radius or taper on the vent end are more prone to noise. This sharp edge on the vent can create chuffing or other noises as air rushes over its edges. For a 3-inch or larger vent, a simple 3/4”-inch radius on the vent edge is just barely enough to be beneficial. A much larger radius offers more benefit in allowing the air inside the vent to decelerate properly.

Your Enclosure May Need Bracing

If you are looking for the best possible performance from your subwoofer system, then every effort possible should be made to ensure that each panel of the enclosure is as rigid as possible. One way to add strength to an enclosure is for the manufacturer to install bracing. Bracing connects opposite panels to each other to reduce flexing. Panel vibrations can, in extreme cases, cause glue joints to fail.

Application-specific Subwoofer Enclosures

We have talked about some of the benefits and some of the drawbacks of an off-the-shelf subwoofer enclosure. The alternative is to have your mobile electronics retailer design and construct an enclosure to fit your vehicle. Maximizing usable storage space can be achieved by having your fabricator fit the enclosure snugly to the sides of the vehicle. Many vehicle-specific enclosures combine different construction techniques. Flat panels, fiberglass, stacked-panel fabrication and more can allow an installer to make amazing use of every cubic inch of your storage space.

Maximize Bass Custom Vented Enclosures

One of the first and most beneficial additions than can be made to a factory audio system is a subwoofer system. When it is time to take that first step, visit your local mobile electronics retailer. They will be happy to show you what is available for your vehicle, and what they can create. We know that no matter what you choose, you will be pleased with the dramatic results.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

When you go shopping for a new radio for your car, one of the many questions the product specialist should ask you is whether your existing radio has steering wheel-mounted audio controls. Almost every aftermarket radio has provisions to accept a signal that will give you steering wheel audio control functions like volume, source selection, tracking and power. Here’s how it all works.

Factory Control Functionality

There are two common types of steering wheel control interfaces. The first is resistive; the second is data. Systems that use resistors often have two wires connected to the switches. Each switch presents a different resistance value when pressed. The factory radio sees these different resistances as different voltages and the computer in the radio responds appropriately. There are usually two wires so a multitude of switches can have well-separated resistance values to ensure functions will never overlap.

A small computer is built into the steering wheel controls switches in vehicles that use data communication for the steering wheel audio controls. This computer has inputs dedicated to each switch and its function. When you press a switch on the steering wheel, the computer sends a digital communication to the computer in the radio. Often, this communication takes place on the vehicle’s CAN data network.

Connection to Aftermarket Radios

In North America, almost every radio is Steering Wheel Remote Control Ready. Being “Ready” means the radio has a connection on the back to accept a serial data communication signal. The communication language used on the radio connection is not the same as that used in the vehicle. Thus, you will require an interface module to make everything work. Companies like iDatalink, Axxess and Pacific Accessory Corporation (known in the industry as PAC) all offer interfaces that can be programmed to understand and translate the information from the vehicle to something that is compatible with your radio.

Steering Wheel Audio Control Installation

When your tech is installing the new radio in your vehicle, he has three tasks to complete to make the steering wheel audio controls work. First, he must wire the controls into your vehicle. In many cases, the installer will use a “harness saver” or “wire harness adapter” to connect a set of bare wires to the factory radio plug for power, illumination and speaker wire connections. This adapter usually includes the steering wheel communication wires from the vehicle.

Once the installer completes the electrical connections, the next step is to program the module to understand the commands from the vehicle. Some interfaces have software built into them to recognize commands from the vehicle automatically.

Another method of programming the interfaces uses a website that will allow the installer to select the year, make, model and trim level of the vehicle, and program the interface to recognize the correct commands.

Finally, the interface has to be programmed to send the correct commands to the new radio. Each brand of radio has a set of dedicated and unique command codes.

Additional Options

Over the past few years, many vehicle owners have chosen to upgrade their factory radios to add Bluetooth audio streaming and hands-free calling to their vehicle. New cars have telephone control buttons on the steering wheel, but older ones don’t. Several of the interface modules have the ability to send different commands to the aftermarket radio, depending on how long you press and hold the steering wheel buttons. For example, a quick tap on the Volume Down button will, of course, turn the volume of the aftermarket radio down. You can have the button programmed so pressing and holding it for a couple of seconds to tell the radio to answer an incoming Bluetooth phone call.

The list of compatible functions varies by vehicle and the make and model of the aftermarket radio.

Custom Applications

One unique feature of the steering wheel control interface is that your installer could build a set of custom controls for you. Let’s say you are building a custom car, and you want to add a nice sound system. In most applications like this, the builder will install the aftermarket radio in the glovebox, under the seat or in the trunk of the vehicle. But how can you control the radio if you cannot reach the controls? Your installer could mount a set of switches in the center console and then program the switches, through an interface module to control the aftermarket radio.

Some installers and fabricators have gotten quite creative with these switch installations. A power mirror adjustment switch, for instance, serves as a great solution for volume and tracking functions.

Your Retailer is Ready to Help

When it is time to install a new radio in your vehicle, drop by your local mobile electronics specialist retailer. They would be happy to show you the latest in car audio source units and explain how they can integrate it into your vehicle.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.