It’s early 2018, and North America is still contending with a deep freeze and some nasty winter weather. Erie, Pennsylvania, got more than 50 inches of snow over the holidays, and several northeastern US cities set records for cold weather. Montreal, Canada, spent six consecutive days with the temperature below 1 degree F. Amid all this shivering, our cars and trucks have been suffering. We’ve seen people lined up at auto parts stores to buy new car batteries. What is it about the cold that gives a car battery such a hard time? Read on to find out some important facts about car battery maintenance.

Taxing the Electrical System

A while back, we took a very detailed look at how car batteries work, explaining the chemistry behind releasing electrons as energy. We won’t punish you with the high-school chem lab rigmarole again.

When your battery has a full charge, the outside temperature can typically reach well below -50F before the battery starts to freeze. Conversely, a depleted battery will start to freeze just below 30F. Once the battery freezes, you won’t be moving any electrons anywhere quickly.

For a normal lead-acid battery, in excellent condition with a full charge, the battery should be around 12.6 to 12.7 volts when measured without any load. When depleted by about 50 percent, the battery will read around 12.3 volts. 12.0V means you have about 25 percent charge left. Finally, anything less than 11.9 means the battery is dead. The range is not very wide and most people think that if the battery is at 12.0 volts, it’s fine.

The Downward Spiral of Energy Reserve

The problem with cold weather and battery performance isn’t typically caused by temperature alone. As temperatures drop, we find ourselves using seat heaters, rear window defrosters and heated steering wheels, and of course we have the heater blower cranked all the way up! These electrical loads tax your charging system and draw current away from your battery. If you drive a short distance to work, say less than 15 minutes, you will find the charge level of your battery drops slowly day after day.

Over the holidays, many people change their routine. One option is to stay at home, cuddled up by the fire or the cozy glow of your plasma TV. Another option is to head to the airport and hop on a plane to somewhere warm for a week. Sure, there are still lots of people who have to work over the holidays, and their routines don’t change much.

For those who let their vehicles sit for several days, circuits like keyless entry systems and the clock continue to function. Even if they only draw 10 to 15mA of current, they will slowly drain the reserve out of your battery.

When we start our vehicles in cold weather, the oil in the engine and transmission are much thicker. This dramatically increases the current required to turn the starter motor. If it took 200 Amps to start your car on a nice sunny summer day, it’s not even remotely unreasonable for that number to double when the temperature is below freezing.

But Wait, There’s More!

So, now we have a battery that isn’t being charged very quickly when we drive, combined with reduced current delivery capabilities and significantly higher power requirements to start the car. It’s no wonder that cars don’t start when it’s cold out.

Now, let’s say you’re a smart cookie, and you decide to let your car idle a few minutes before you drive off. In terms of protecting your engine, this is the best idea in the world! Getting some heat into your motor oil will help thin it out and let it do its job better. Fuel will atomize better as the temperature of your engine increases. The downside is that most alternators don’t produce their full charging voltage at idle. So, while you may be doing wonderful things for the engine, you may not be charging the battery very much.

Batteries by the Numbers

Aside from not being to charge our batteries as quickly, and the fact that we need more current, batteries themselves simply do not perform as well when the temperature starts to drop. Let’s look at two common battery specifications: Cranking Amps and Cold Cranking Amps. The Cranking Amps specification defines the amount of current a battery can supply for 30 seconds when it is at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) and maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The Cold Cranking Amp specification is similar but with a temperature of 0 degrees F (-17.8 degrees C). Sadly, the reality of this specification is that 7.2 volts isn’t enough to get much work done. The flip side? We often don’t need to crank the engine for 30 seconds. Therefore, it all works out.

Your battery can’t produce as much energy when it’s cold because the rate at which the chemical conversation takes place is slowed down, increasing electrolyte resistance.

Taking Care of Your Battery in the Cold

When the mercury is slated to drop, or you won’t be driving your vehicle for more than three or four days, put a charger on it.

Please pay attention to this part. Not all battery chargers are equal. Those manually controlled, dual-rate chargers in the metal case at Walmart are NOT what you want.

Look for a battery charger that says it’s computer-controlled, automatic or intelligent. You will want to see some indication that the charger has different charging modes. The charger needs to be intelligent enough to stop pumping current into the battery once it’s charged.

Some of the best chargers have as many as eight steps/modes in their charging process. These can include processes that will break down sulfates that have adhered to the lead plates and prevent stratification when the battery is unused for a long period. Do your research before you buy.

Regular Battery Maintenance

Wouldn’t it be nice if our vehicles had a battery level indicator like our cell phones have? Knowing whether we have 70 percent or 30 percent charge left would dramatically improve the way we care for our batteries. Try to make it a habit of keeping the battery topped up. If you have sat in a parking lot listening to the radio for 20 minutes or made several short trips without a good long one to recharge the battery, connect your charger overnight and fill it up. It’s also a good idea to use your battery charger whenever you get your oil changed as a precaution. A well-maintained battery will last much longer than one that spends its life half-depleted.

If your battery has removal caps that allow you to check the electrolyte level, be sure to check the battery frequently. If the level is low, add distilled water. Do not use tap water. The minerals in the water will reduce the capacity of your battery.

You will also want to check all the battery connections. Are the power and ground connections tight? Is there any corrosion? If anything seems out of sorts, seek the assistance of a professional to ensure energy can flow from your battery efficiently and reliably.

Battery Care for Mobile Electronics Enthusiasts

A lot of car audio lovers forget to maintain their battery. The guys who compete in SPL contests are fanatical about battery maintenance. They have come up with all sorts of tricks to get the most voltage possible out of even the simplest of electrical systems.

If you have added accessories to your automotive electrical system, then battery maintenance is especially important. The addition of a dash camera that includes an automatic parking mode can tax a battery. If the weather is going to be much below freezing, you should turn that feature off. If you have a remote starter with a two-way remote, those also add a little extra current draw to your battery. A telematics solution like DroneMobile, SmartStart or AutoConnect also draws current. Stack up a few of these options and your battery may only last a week if you don’t drive the vehicle. You can see why battery maintenance is so important.

If you have questions about taking care of your electrical system, drop into your local mobile enhancement retailer. They can suggest what charger offers the best performance and may even have one in stock. If you need a new battery, they might be able to help with that as well. Don’t let yourself get stranded – take care of your car battery and it will take care of you!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

If you look around the Internet, it won’t take long before you see someone say that hooking up an amplifier is as easy as connecting a few wires. Are they right? Well, yes. You most certainly do need to hook up some wires. You also need to know how to connect those wires, disassemble your vehicle, run the wires safely and reassemble the vehicle. Oh, did they mention that only covers the power wire? You still need a ground wire, signal cables, speaker wires and a remote wire. No problem, right? You can figure this stuff out, it’s just hooking up wires! You have access to YouTube, Facebook and your friend whose dad is an electrician.

Most people don’t have everything they need to set up an amp accurately. Do you have the equipment to test the audio signal you are feeding to the amp to ensure it doesn’t distort? Do you have the tools to ensure the amp can handle the signal input voltage you’ll be delivering? Do you know how to set the sensitivity control and the crossovers?

Suddenly, hooking up a few wires has blossomed into a full-on engineering project that requires a multimeter, an oscilloscope and a real-time analyzer. Let’s look at what it takes to install a simple five-channel amp in a new car. We think you’ll be surprised.

Step 1: Power Delivery

The task is simple: Provide your new amplifier with an appropriate connection to the vehicle electrical system. The connection requires adequately sized conductors for minimal voltage drop at the rated current requirements of the amplifier. If you’re on a budget, you will need to know how to de-rate the power wire if it’s not pure copper. The installation needs a protection device to guard against short circuits in the event of an accident or mishap with the amplifier. The ground return path needs to offer minimal resistance in order to prevent ground loops in the system.

To complete this task, you will need to find a path from the vehicle battery to the amplifier. The path must be away from any moving components or sources of heat. You’ll also need to avoid sources of electrical interference, if possible.

You will need to know how to identify vehicles constructed using aluminum, composites or laminated materials and how to compensate for this. You will need to recognize where vehicles are assembled using adhesives instead of spot welds and how to compensate for that.

Choosing a reliable and appropriate protection device is also crucial. You want something that can withstand exposure to the elements while maintaining adequate protection and minimal voltage loss. You need to know where and how to mount the device so that the vehicle is protected properly.

If you have to drill holes for anything, make sure you know how to check for factory wiring harnesses, fuel lines, brake lines and emission control components. You’ll need something to treat the metal after you have drilled it so that it won’t rust. You will need to protect the wires you run through the hole. If you have completed all the tests to confirm that you can use the chassis as your ground return path, the same precautions apply to drilling that hole. You need to prepare the vehicle for the ground connection, and have a plan to treat it after installation to prevent corrosion. Of course, you need the appropriate hardware to fasten the ground connection or connections properly, safely and securely.

Finally, you will need to have the proper tools to make your connection to the amplifier. These tools may be a simple as a sharp knife, or may include the need for a terminal crimping tool capable of handling appropriate-sized spade or ring terminals. Depending on the amplifier, you may need wire ferrules for a secure, efficient and reliable installation. You’ll also need a screwdriver and a set of Allen keys.

Step 2A: Signal Delivery – Aftermarket Radio

If you have chosen to replace the stock radio in your vehicle with an aftermarket unit, connecting the amp to the source unit is as simple running RCA interconnect cables. Isn’t it? First and foremost, you will need to know what length of cable you need. The cables certainly can’t be too short, and if they are too long, how will you deal with the extra length? The choice of cables is also quite important. Are the inputs to your amplifier single-ended or differential? If you don’t know, do you have the tools to test the amp? Based on the answer to the amplifier input stage design research, have you chosen the correct style of interconnect for your application? Your choices include twisted pair cables and coaxial cables, each of which have many options for shielding.

In terms of running the interconnect cables through your vehicle, do you know how to disassemble the vehicle adequately to run the cables safely and securely? If the cables are visible when you deem the installation complete, well, it isn’t. Do you know what devices and areas to avoid while running the cable? Do you have the supplies to secure the cables in place to prevent them from buzzing and rattling in the dash as you drive?

Step 2B: Factory-Installed Source Unit

If you will be using the factory source unit to feed your amplifier, you need to know what wires to hook up. If you are lucky, someone may have worked on a car like yours and hopefully wrote down which wire goes where. If nobody has provided the answers, you’ll need some tools to do some research.

First, you need to find the audio signal coming out of the factory source unit. In some cases, there is no analog audio signal present at the source, only out of the factory amplifier. Then you’ll need to determine the polarity of the signal. Next, you’ll need tools to determine the frequency response and amplitude of this signal. You will also need to be able to discern whether the signal is usable all the way up to full volume on the head unit. Finally, you’ll need to determine what kind of signal you are dealing with. Is it balanced or single-ended? Does the frequency response change with different volume settings? Does the signal contain the audio information you need, or is there an upmixer in the vehicle? Other tests include checking for phase equalization in the signal and the presence of warnings and alerts from the vehicle safety systems.

Depending on the answers you get, you will need to determine how to proceed. Can you connect the RCA interconnects directly to the speaker wire? Do you need a line-level converter? Do you need something to remove equalization and time alignment from the signal? Do you know how to deal with phase EQ? Hopefully you can get this right, or your upgrade may not sound very good.

Step 3: Running Speaker Wires

OK, now that we have done all of our testing and made sure we have a usable signal for our amp, it’s time to run wires to the speakers. If you are using the factory speakers, you can use the factory wiring to save some time. Just follow the rules about where and how to run speaker wires relative to noise sources, sharp edges, moving objects, heat sources and so on.

If you are running new speaker wire in the doors, you need to know how to take the trim off the door without damaging it or losing any of the clips. You will have to remove the door handle and lock release cables from the door panel. In some vehicles, the window regulator needs to come out so that you can access the inside of the wire boot.

Speaking of wire boots, most include a connector of some kind on the vehicle side, so you will need to know how to deal with those, and how to safely and securely add a quick-disconnect to the wire to make sure the door remains serviceable.

After you have the wire in the door, you will need to connect to the speakers. This could be as simple as crimping on spade terminals, using a terminal block or soldering to a factory wire plug. It’s always good to check the wiring to verify that you have the polarity correct before you put the door back together. Oh, and make sure you use appropriate wire management so that the new speaker wire doesn’t interfere with the window mechanism.

Step 4: Amplifier Configuration

Congratulations! If you have made it this far, then it’s clear sailing to the finish line. You will have determined that the audio signal you are connecting to the amplifier will work within its specifications for voltage and signal type (balanced or not). The next step is to configure the crossovers on the amplifier. In most cases, you will be applying a high-pass filter to the front and rear speakers and a low-pass filter to the subwoofer on the mono channel. We all know that the crossover frequency labels on amplifiers are notoriously inaccurate, so you may need an RTA to measure the frequency response of the system as you fine-tune the crossovers. You’ll need to know how low to set the crossovers so that you can establish a solid bass foundation in the front of the vehicle while protecting the speakers from excessive excursion. Next, you need to blend the subwoofer crossover with the front and rear speakers so that there are no gaps or significant overlaps in frequency response. If there are any phase issues with the midrange speakers blending with the subwoofer, you need to know how to compensate for that.

The last step is to set the sensitivity control on your amplifier to ensure that you have maximized the signal-to-noise ratio of your audio system and ensured that it will not distort significantly at full volume. It should also be noted that a lot of factory source units distort at full volume, so your tests in section 2B will determine what the new “full volume” setting on your deck is. Being able to distort the signal a little bit is OK, as it allows you to play music that was recorded quietly at enjoyable levels. It’s also necessary to know how much gain overlap is appropriate for the subwoofer and midrange speakers.

Step 5: Testing the Installation

Once the installation and configuration are complete, the system needs to be tested. The person doing the work will need a reference against which he or she can judge the performance of the upgrade. We aren’t quite sure what to tell you about this. You either have a reference for a great sounding audio system, or you don’t. If there is something wrong, the installer will need to resolve the issue. Potential problems include engine noise, heterodyne noise and radio reception issues from an installation standpoint. You also need to know how to check the system to verify that all the speakers are in correct polarity and the signals from each are summing at the listening position.

Congratulations on Your Amplifier Installation

Well, there you go. That’s a short list of things you need to know in order to install, test and troubleshoot the wiring up of your new amplifier. We didn’t talk about guidelines for amplifier mounting locations or mounting methods, since those topics vary a great deal based on amplifier choice, vehicle design and the chosen style of installation.

If you decide that you don’t have the tools to complete any one of these tasks, your local mobile enhancement retailer is willing to help you out with your installation. Give them a call!

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

While modern vehicle features such as lane departure warning systems and adaptive cruise control aren’t available for your classic car or hot rod, there are modern technologies available for your pride and joy. These will make your next cruise or car show much safer and more enjoyable. Let’s take a look at how classic car technology improvements can benefit your classic car without making it look like a spaceship or Knight Rider.

Backup and Parking Camera Systems

Most new cars come with a backup camera. These camera systems display an image of what is behind your vehicle as soon as the transmission is in reverse gear. If your vehicle has limited rearward visibility, a camera system can prevent accidents and damage with a minimal investment.
These compact cameras are available in flush-mount, surface mount and license plate mount solutions. The cameras are quite small and are available in black and chrome finishes. Integrating a camera into your classic vehicle isn’t hard. More importantly, they do not require any permanent modification to your ride.
A camera system requires a monitor of some kind. If you have chosen an aftermarket radio solution with a color LCD screen, displaying the camera image is very easy. If the interior of your classic vehicle looks like it just rolled off the factory floor, a qualified mobile enhancement retailer can work with you to develop a custom monitor solution. Perhaps the most common option in these applications is a new rearview mirror with an integrated screen. With a little work, one of these mirrors can be incorporated into a solution that looks like your factory mirror.

Forward Facing Camera and Parking Sensor Solutions

Just as with the backup cameras, mobile enhancement retailers can incorporate a forward-facing camera into the front of your vehicle. These cameras are perfect for avoiding parking curbs and getting nice and close the garage wall at home. Integrating the secondary forward-facing camera into a backup camera system is easy.
Another option is a parking sensor system. Solutions like the Curb Alert Pro can prevent scratches to your bumper or air dam by alerting you when you are getting close to the curb. This system uses a compact sensor that mounts low on your vehicle. As you approach an object, the system emits a series of beeps to let you know you are getting close to it. The speed of the beeps increases as you get closer and closer.

Vehicle Convenience Solutions

Integrating modern technologies like power door locks, power trunk release and power windows into a classic car are relatively simple options. Switches inside the vehicle can control these features, or you can choose to integrate them into the remote control from a car alarm to keep the vehicle looking stock. In modern cars, these functions are often electronically-controlled from the factory and only require some wiring and relays to make them part of a security system. In an older vehicle where these systems are mechanical, actuators and solenoids are available. The same goes for power windows. There are many kits available to power the factory crank system. If your windows aren’t running as smoothly as they should, new regulators are available from companies like Year One, LMC Truck and Classic Industries.
If you live in an area that is cool in the spring and fall, an aftermarket seat heater system is a great way to add comfort to your vehicle. We can integrate these heating panels into a bench or bucket seats with minimal effort. Most systems include a high/low switch to let you choose the warmth level.

Radar Detector and Laser Defense Systems

You don’t need to be partaking in One Lap of America, The Cannonball Run or The Hot Rod Power Tour to be concerned about getting a speeding ticket. A run to the grocery store for burgers or a quick trip to the parts store for a gasket can be just as harrowing. Modern radar detectors have come a long way from the days of the lunchbox-sized units of the 1980s and 1990s. In fact, a modern custom-installed radar detector can be invisible. The radar receiver fits comfortably behind your front grille. Controlling the system can be accomplished using a smartphone, an IR remote control or by a compact keypad. Alerts are provided audibly, letting you know what kind of radar is in use and how strong the signal is.
Laser speed guns used to be infallible citation. However, now there are many options available to combat these systems by transmitting a distorted laser signal until you can ensure you are traveling at a legal speed. These compact transmitters are smaller than a deck of cards. They can fit in front grilles or air inlets.

Sound Deadening Reduces Noise and Adds Comfort

Perhaps one of the most popular upgrades for a classic car or hot rod is to install sound deadening. Sound deadening is available in several different materials. The most common are butyl rubber, mass-loaded vinyl and lead. Each serves to absorb sound energy to help make the interior of your vehicle quieter. The sound deadening material can be applied to the floor, roof, interior or exterior door and quarter panels, the trunk lid and on firewalls.
Very few classic vehicles include air conditioning and unless you are cruising on the Interstate, the interior can get quite hot. If you have a high-power engine and a large-diameter exhaust system, keeping the interior of your vehicle comfortable can be even more challenging. Most sound deadening materials also include a layer of aluminum to help prevent the transmission of heat into the vehicle interior. A layer of sound deadening can make a dramatic difference to the comfort of your vehicle. There are also several spray-on sound deadening and thermal control solutions available. Drop into your local mobile enhancement retailer to find the best solution for your application.

Classic Car Technology Add Comfort, Convenience and Safety

If your classic car or hot rod could use a little help from some modern features and functions, drop by your local mobile enhancement retailer. They can offer you a lot more than just audio system upgrades.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

If you’ve been in the audio industry for a while, then you’ve likely heard that old-school or classic car audio amplifiers are better than the new stuff. How someone quantifies “better” is somewhat of personal preference. They could be talking about aesthetics or the sound of the product. Whatever it is people like about classic audio equipment, buying and selling vintage audio equipment is big business. Here’s a little story a good friend told us about dealing with a pair of older amps.
A while back, a friend dropped off a pair of truly classic car audio amplifiers. We had an Orion Concept 97-3 and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X on the bench to check out. The plan was to see how much power the amps made, take some frequency response and distortion measurements and ensure that they would be working properly. Sadly, the Orion almost self-destructed on power-up, and the Rockford had a lot of distortion. Not what we were hoping for, or really, what we expected. So, let’s take a look at each amp, what happened and why.

Orion Concept 97-3

The Concept 97-3 was an amplifier released in 1998 as a giant middle finger to the controversy surrounding amplifiers’ ratings in SPL competition. With the proliferation of “cheater amps,” Orion chose to rate the massive Concept 97-3 at 0.5 watts per channel into a 4-ohm load at 12 volts. Their goal of forcing IASCA, USCA and dB Drag Racing to change the way amps are rated was a foregone conclusion.

Orion on the Bench

We started with the massive Orion amp. We set it up, connected it to our 160 amp power supply and turned it on. Even with no speakers or signal connected, the amp was drawing an incredible 86 amps of current. We shut it down quickly and started looking for problems. Now, we’ll make it clear: We are not a repair shop; we test and quantify the performance of products. So, the plan to fix an amp was a bit outlandish but seemed like a lot of fun!
After about four sessions of measuring resistances and voltages with the help of several industry veterans, we found a shorted output device and a pair of shorted driver transistors. We chose to replace all the output devices to make sure everything was fresh.

Vintage Means Old

We encountered a few issues along the way. The circuit board clamps to a finned heat sink that fits inside the visible shroud. This secondary heat sink is what makes these amps so tall. The output and switching devices have thermally conductive tape on either side of them to remove heat efficiently. The first problem was that the tape had deteriorated and dried out. Surely this would affect its ability to transfer heat efficiently. Another problem was that the tape glued the devices to the heat sink and clamping bracket. When we tried to remove the bracket, several of the devices ripped apart.
The second major issue with the Orion surfaced after we finished fixing it. Once we had the amp up and running reliably, we set it up to take some power measurements. The Concept managed to make 207 watts on the left channel and 208.7 watts on the right, and 738.4 watts when bridged into a 4-ohm load. The next step was to measure frequency response and distortion. This is where things went weird. The amp was oscillating above 1 kHz. As we mentioned, we aren’t a repair shop. Sure, we could chase the signal through the amp and find the problem, but we have other projects lined up.

Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X

The Punch 700X is four-channel amp that was conservatively rated at 87.3 watts per channel and debuted around 2002. On the bench, the Rockford seemed to work well. No strange noises from the power supply, and the output seemed reasonable. Tested individually so as not to tax the power supply, we eked out more than 275 watts per channel into a 2-ohm load, according to our D’Amore Engineering AMM-1 in Dyno Power mode.
We decided to take a look at the frequency response of the amp, so we performed a few high-resolution sweeps using our digital interface and the Room EQ Wizard software. While not a disaster, it does roll off on the top and bottom. Referenced to the peak output at 650 Hz, the amp was down 0.8 dB at 20Hz and 1.27 dB at 20kHz. Not enough to be a problem, but measurable. For reference, most quality amps are flat within a dB from around 10Hz to more than 40kHz.

The next step was to measure distortion. We recently upgraded our digital interface to ensure the measurements we take are of the device under test, and not artifacts of our hardware. The new interface measures flat from 5 Hz to 92 kHz, has a signal to noise ratio of -116dBA and a total harmonic distortion specification of less than 0.00032 percent. We always calibrate the interface before each test.
We took a few distortion sweeps of the 700X, and much to our chagrin, it’s a disaster. Second order harmonic distortion at a drive level of 2V (1 watt into 4 ohms) was around 5 percent to 6 percent on all channels.

Old and Wrinkled

As we were moving the amp around to change connections, we noticed a rattle. A few taps and some shaking revealed that the power supply output caps seemed loose internally. We ordered up eight new Nichicon 4700uF, 50V caps and swapped them out.
As curious as we are, we decided to pry open one of the caps for a look. As you can see, the top of the cap is swollen and it appears the electrolyte has dried up. We hooked two of the caps up to our capacitance tester for some sleuthing. Both caps have a rating of 4700uF at 50V. The first measured 2024 uF and the second cap measured 2012 uF. By comparison, the new Nichicon caps all tested around 4800 to 4900 uF. That’s 40 percent of the desired energy storage and filtering capacity. Not good news at all.
Once the amp was back together, we measured it again. Steady state power production and frequency response were the same. We hadn’t taken any dynamic power tests beforehand, so we had no reference against which to measure after the replacement.

Thermal Compound Deterioration

As we were taking the amplifier circuit board out of the heat sink, it quickly became apparent that the thermal compound used to help wick heat away from the power supply and output switching devices had dried up. No doubt, it wasn’t serving any beneficial purpose. We scraped it off, cleaned up the heat sink and devices, then applied new compound before we put the amp back together.

Let Bygones Be Bygones

So, with two truly classic amps failing, is there anything we can discern from this? We invested more than $200 in parts and supplies to repair these amps. In terms of time, well, we likely spent 20 to 25 hours testing, diagnosing and repairing. Someone who fixes amps for a living would be much faster, but you’d still be looking at several hundred dollars per amp to bring them to this point. Eliminating the remaining distortion and frequency response problems may or may not even be possible. By the way, another friend dropped off a Precision Power PC225 to check out. It blew up. Power supply switching devices went boom. Ugh.
The experience has highlighted that electronics truly don’t last forever. The dried-out power supply caps are the tip of the iceberg for the Rockford. Every electrolytic cap on the board should be swapped out. The Orion was filthy inside and required a thorough cleaning. Maybe dirty EQ or mono switches were responsible for the strange frequency response issues? Maybe some of the caps on this amp had dried out as well? The PPI? No idea what its problem is.

Classic Car Audio Amplifiers Might Be Best as Memories

If we were looking for an amp to power our mobile audio system, something old would not be on our list. Sure, maybe they sounded great when they were new, but time has taken its toll. Could they be restored? Absolutely! The circuit boards are in great shape. Is it worth it? If you have a sentimental attachment, go ahead. If you think they these old clunkers will outperform a new design, based on our hands-on experience, that’s not very likely. If you want an amp that sounds amazing, just buy a new one. Your local mobile enhancement retailer would be happy to help you choose something with outstanding sound.
This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.